what persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift?

Shallow-water Wave Transformations [ home port | Wind In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. Waves originate in the fetch area. Question 13 of 254.0/ 4.0 Points What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? They occur when water masses slip over one another. Wave height/wave length. Radial C. Trellis D. Rectangular, Your return customer. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Wind-generated waves are progressive waves because they travel across the sea surface. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing A. email prof. ] Spits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? Click here for ANIMATION Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. - Fetch (distance over which wind blows) labs | D. residential areas In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. Internal Waves A. friction of the seafloor slowing waves, causing the crest to grow - Celerity Deep Water Waves (Figure 7-4a) Surfing Video: Condition Black [ home port | This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. - Wind duration Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. What is the driving force behind most waves? Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, - Persistent onshore winds. C. depends on the location Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Wave Speed In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. A. shoreface/nearshore surf | In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. Based on Utah water rights law, the _______ water rights holder has priority use of water. lectures | There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. lectures | - Height increases What happens to the wave train because of wave dispersion? Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) All of the following factors affect the probability of mass wasting EXCEPT: Which of the following mass wasting mitigation efforts is characterized by spraying reinforced concrete onto a slop surface? labs | Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. B. tidal flat Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b) Which feature of a wave is most important in order to understand the wave base of a wave's motion? The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Rogue Waves? The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Wave height/wave length. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Shallow Water Waves (Figure 7-4b) There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Tsunamis I need help with the attached lab.. Wave Motions Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Chapter 7 Summary The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. What is the greatest mass wasting hazard to guests in Yosemite National Park? What two factors create the classic "C" shape of breakers and tsunamis? D. the open spaces between clay particles in a very impermeable rock When the crest of two waves meet in the open ocean, it leads to larger waves through a process called______, In North America wave energy is usually higher in the winter, Fetch is the distance over which wind can blow on water to generate waves, Warm ocean currents tend to be found on the west coasts of continents. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) What is the main difference between tidal flats/mud flats and lagoons? Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. They have very long periods and very large heights. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) email prof. ] Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. 239 Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. email prof. ] In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Internal Waves Storm Surges Where a stream begins is called the mount of the stream. Which of these is likely to increase erosion of sediment in the headwaters of a stream? Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. When the rate of discharge exceeds that of groundwater recharge, balances precipitation against evaporation and discharge. What is the Rincon at Lake Powell in Utah? The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Wave height/wave length. Resonance Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. lectures | What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? The forward movement of the wave form. What happens to the wave train because of wave dispersion? Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. They are stationary and Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) email prof. ] Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. Waves originate in the fetch area. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. A jetty may have bad consequences for beach nourishment. The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. Wind Generation of Waves As waves pass, water particles move in __________ motions? The orbits of the water molecules become elliptical. They have very long periods and very large heights. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. The type of wave generated by wind is determined by: A jetty may have bad consequences for beach nourishment. Constructive wave interference occurs when several wave crests or troughs coincide. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) What causes tsunamis and breakers to "break" as they approach the shore? [ home port | Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) labs | lectures | In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing C. cohesion http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation - Constructive Breaking is determined by wave steepness higher storm energy in the winter moves sand off the beach and stores it in the nearshore. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. - Constructive Other Types of Progressive Waves Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. This give water several unique properties. Which features of a wave is most important in order to understand the wave base of a wave's motion? http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. This interference may be: Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Bottom friction alters both the Answers: A. D. E. F. Carbonic acid is present in all precipitation. Chapter 7 Summary http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. - Wind duration Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) surf | Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. On the inside curve of a meander water velocity is slower, and deposition of sediment forms a _______, Karst land forms can develop when water in combination with carbon dioxide in the air creates ______, causing the calcite in limestone to dissolve. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. depending on the slope of the bottom Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Answers: A. C. D. A slump (rotational landslide) is often preceded by __________________? Resonance Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Tsunamis WebLongshore currents are affected by the velocity and angle of a wave. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. labs | B. Yosemite Rock Falls As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. A. raising of base level

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